Pride Month: A retreat for the Eunuchs: Hijron ka Khanqah

Date

Not many know about the existence of a spiritual retreat wedged between the bustling and crowded streets of Mehrauli. The entry is restricted, which makes the structure a more occasional mention in city encyclopedias and lists of must-visit places. What is so special about the Khanqah, you ask? This 15th century structure is dedicated to the community of eunuchs, known more popularly as hijras.

What is Hijron ka Khanqah?

A Khanqah is monument of Sufi retreat where members of the Sufi tradition meet and gather for spiritual wellness and character reformation. The ‘Hijron ka Khanqah’ essentially means a ‘Spritual retreat for the Hijras.’ This structure, built under the leadership of Sikander Lodi in the 15th century, is well maintained to date by the Hijras of Turkman Gate who are in its possession since the 20th Century.

Structure and Design

Once you enter, marble steps lead to a large patio where several tombs in different shapes and sizes lie in queues parallel to each other. These tombs belong to 49 hijras that have been buried here. They seem to be paying respcets to the bigger, ornate structure which supposedly houses the body of a hijra knows as Miyan Saheb. The tombs are enclosed on the west – the prayer direction – by a wall mosque, and supplement the quiet aura of the place with a grave solemnity.

The community of Hijras

It is not known to many that the hijra community was a revered one in Mughal and Lodi eras, and even before that. Hindu mythology contains trans characters that fought in wars, and history documents the participation of Hijras in the imperial court. Their socio-economic condition deteriorated largely during the colonial British rule in India. The community in the current society suffers from a lack of access to basic education and healthcare. Their livelihood is scarce and survives on the ideas of auspiciousness attached to their presence at weddings and childbirth.

The Khanqah today

The structure remains abandoned except on festive occasions, when food is distributed among the poor. Entry for visitors is otherwise restricted.

How to Access

The Khanqah is located in Mehrauli, a neighbourhood in South Delhi famous for 100 continuous years of occupation. The nearest Metro station is Qutub Minar station on the yellow line.